Road trip · 7 days
Albania Road Trip: the Riviera and the Ottoman Towns in 7 Days
Albania is what the Mediterranean was thirty years ago: mountain roads to empty beaches, Ottoman towns on hillsides, and prices that make Croatia look expensive. The roads have improved dramatically; the driving has not.
Day by day
| Day | Route | km | What to see |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Tirana → Berat | 120 | Collect at the airport and go straight to the 'city of a thousand windows'. The castle quarter is inhabited and the views at sunset are the reason you came. |
| 2 | Berat → Gjirokastër | 150 | Stone-roofed houses climbing to a fortress; Ismail Kadare's town. Park below the bazaar. |
| 3 | Gjirokastër → Blue Eye → Sarandë → Ksamil | 80 | The Blue Eye spring, then the coast: Ksamil's beaches and islands are busy in July and August and empty in June and September. |
| 4 | Ksamil → Butrint → Himarë | 70 | Roman and Byzantine ruins in a lagoon, then the coast road north to the fishing village of Himarë. |
| 5 | Himarë → Dhërmi → Llogara Pass → Vlorë | 90 | The SH8 over the Llogara Pass at 1,000 m: the finest drive in the Balkans. Fill the tank in Himarë. |
| 6 | Vlorë → Apollonia → Durrës | 130 | Greek ruins in olive groves, then the Roman amphitheatre at Durrës and a last swim. |
| 7 | Durrës → Krujë → Tirana | 70 | Skanderbeg's castle and the old bazaar at Krujë, then the airport. |
Book the car before the flights sell out the fleet
Summer availability on automatics and SUVs runs out weeks ahead.
Before you go
- Assume nobody yields. Roundabouts, junctions and overtaking are all negotiated.
- The Llogara Pass has no fuel for 60 km and the drop-offs are real. Daylight only.
- Confirm cross-border permission if you want a Montenegro detour to Kotor — usually allowed for €30–60.
- Police checkpoints are frequent. Rental papers, passport and an International Driving Permit within reach, always.
Common questions
How many days does this route need?
7 days as written, covering about 900 km. Add a day for every island or mountain detour you cannot resist.
Where should I rent the car?
Collect in Tirana — see our Tirana car rental guide for prices, deposits and the desks worth using.
Can a rental car cross the borders on this route?
Most rentals allow Montenegro, North Macedonia and Kosovo with a fee; Greece is often refused or expensive. Ask in writing.
When is the best time to drive it?
May–June and September–early October: warm, dry, and without the July–August traffic and border queues. Winter closes the high passes.
Rules of the road in Albania
| Drives on the | RIGHT |
|---|---|
| Speed limits (town / open road / expressway / motorway) | 40 / 80 / 90 / 110 km/h |
| Tolls | One: the Rruga e Kombit motorway to the Kosovo border (about €5). |
| Vignette | None. |
| Winter rules | No fixed date; winter tyres are strongly advised in the north from December to March. The mountain roads to Theth close with snow. |
| Taking the car across borders | Most rentals allow Montenegro, North Macedonia and Kosovo with a fee; Greece is often refused or expensive. Ask in writing. |
| Local quirks | Roundabouts and right-of-way are negotiated rather than obeyed. Fuel is dearer than in neighbouring countries. Police checkpoints are routine and polite — carry the rental papers and an International Driving Permit. |
| Currency | Albanian lek (ALL) |